Gelişmekte olan ülkelerde ve Türkiye`de tekstil kesiminin yeri
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Abstract
Tekstil sanayii, gelişmiş ve gelişmekte olan ülkeler tarafından büyük önem verilen ve sürekli ge lişme gösteren sektörlerden biridir. Yapılarına uygun olmasıve ihracat olanakları sağlaması ile de özellikle gelişmekte olan ülke eko nomilerinde önemlidir. Bu çalışmada, gelişmekte olan ülkelerde ve Tür kiye'de tekstil kesiminin yeri dört bölümde ele alın In nowadays, textile industry is considered im portant by developed (DC) and developing countries (.'USD) The sector has a continuos change. The textile sector is important, especially in the economy of developing countries. Because, this industry can help to save foreign exchange and apart from aqriculture can he the largest provider of emp loyment. Even if the sector begans to be capital in tensive, because of technological developments, the in dustry can use the labour intensive technic too, this technic is suitable for structure of LDC. In this study, the state of textile sector, in LDCs and Turkey, is examined. The study is consisted of four theory and one application parts. The aim of the first part is to introduce the textile sector. The textile can be classified by five sectors, whichare cotton textile, woolen, artifical fi bers, carpet and clothing. In this part, definition and characteristics and classifications, which are examined, in general, and LDCs of sector are explained. Then Work possibilities, value added, production value, export and relationships with other sectors of sector are descriebed. The data of Turkey, South Korea and Hong Kong is used as example. And then, there is information about the histories of textile sector of three countri es. below Other three parts of this study are summarized The demand for textile products, even if some times decreases because of economic stagnation, in ge nerally increases since twenty century. This increase rate is about 4.5 %* The income of countries and population increase are important to be effective on the demand. In generally, the demand increase which depends - on the income increase is more effective than the demand increase which depending on population increase in - viii -textile products. When country groups are examined, it shows that, according to relationship of income- demand elasticities, income increase is most effective than the population increase especially in the LDCs. The production and the sale which exists because of increasing demand, causes an active trade. The comprise of the trade becomes to be changed in the course of time. Formerly, the rates of fiber and fabric trade were high, but afterwards clothing had an important share in trade. Than in fiber and fabric trade, the share of DCs decreased and theshare of LDC has increased. In clothing industry, LDCs had an advan tage. In net trade terms, LDCs have more advantage than DCs. If world textile production, consumption and dispersion of trade are examined, it shows that, DCs are important markets for products of LDCs. Consequ ently, when LDCs can iicr ease the export' of textile goods, total export values can be increased'. Then the export increases can cause increases in gross national products (GKP) in these countries. A number of studies have shown a strong relati onship between export expansion and the growth of GNP. The relation between export performance end economic growth has been a subject of considerable in terest to development economists in recent years. Ob viously, since exports are component of aggreagete output one would expect a positive relationship in terms of the correlation coefficent. An interesting example which, connected with this subject, is Sout Korea. The country had export increase at 31. Î % and income increase at 6.9 % in 1965-1973. The annual increase rate of export has affected increase rate of GNP about 4.4 point. The LDCs can join in international trade some production groups that are suitable for the structure of these countries. As a matter of fact, in 1950's when the world trade began, these countries began to sell their products to another countries. The textile products were an important group in products of LDCs. - ix -Prom 1950 to 1980, the changes of % of production of LDCs are more than DCs. In import of DCs, textile industry had high share. But LDCs had only a small share in world manufactured output, but their output and exports of manufactures have grown more rapidly than those of the industrial countries since I960' s. No LDCs figured among the top thirty exporters of manufac tured producting of world in 1965. Twenty years later, Hong Kong and South Korea were among the top fifteen with export shares close to those of Sweden and Switzerland. Singapour and Brazil were among the top twenty with export shares close to Danimark and Finland Morover, manufactured exports from LDCs have become mo re important. After 1980, when developments of example count ries are examined, South Korea and Turkey's export sha res have increased, but, because of machine and manu factures industry goods that textiles is excluded, ex ports share has increased, textile exports of Hong Kong have decreased. In this period, in total imports of industria lized countries, the shares of textile products of LDCs were about 30 %, In the world trade, the structural changes had existed. Because the textile industry of East Asia Gro up, that China, Hong Kong, South Korea, Taiwan and Japan are included, had some developments. For example, between 1979 and 1984 the annual rate of growth of textile exports from main East Asian textile suppliers as a group was about five times faster than the rate of growth of the world trade in textiles. The textile industry is not a subject that only LDCs make production. The major rivals of these co untries are DCs that have important share in textile export, like West Germany, Italy and Japan. But LDCs have an advantage in the worker v/ages, which has important share in costs. When a comporison is made between Turkey and LDCs about the wages, Turkey has more advantage than other LDCs. Other advantage factor, which Turkey has the production of cotton, that is important as raw materi al to product textile goods. The country is seveth among the ranks in the world cotton producers. Even if textile industry is suitable for the st ructure of LDCs, the industry has some matters. One of them is low productivity. The main causes of low ??. x -productivity are the inavailable skilled labour and technological problems. The renovating investments, education of the workers on job training activities, planning of the productive effort, the job programmes, applications of engianeering, quality control, make to be good conditions of the working effect the producti vity increase. In general, research is one of the basic factors of development. Industrialized countries have ihgh tech nology level. Because they consider important researches and then theresults of research become to be used in industries. The expenditure of research and development (R+D) can be measured by the rate to GKP of R+D expenditures, the rate to total working population of personnel enga ged in R+D, thepubl icat ions number of the scientific researches, the number of inventions and the discoveries. In LDCs, research and development activities expenditures and the rate to GKP are very low. When Turkey is comporatived with other LDCs, m Turkey R+D expenditures are lower than another countries. This situation feauses an important lack to follow technolo gical developments. One of the reasons of the productivity lowness is also encouaragement. In Turkey, after 1980, because of important development of thetextile sector, the enco uragements of thesector were increased. In 1982-1986, the number of encouragements certificates was increased about 1190 %. Some investments of sector could have the investment discounts. One of the matter is firm scales in Turkey. The large firms that have at least ten workers have more productive than the small firms that have less than ten workers. The clothing sector is used an example about this subject. When thenumber of workers and scale of firms of this sector, are examined, the number of workers and firms of this sector, are examined, the number of workers and firms in the large scale group have increa sed an the ppposite trend is observed in the small scale group between 1963-1980. But, the dominance of small scale firms, which is the international characteristic of the industry, is also seen in Turkish industry. When the ratio of the small firms to large scale firms and comparisons with theratios of manufacturing indust ry areexamined, shown that theratio of the small firms in the clothing industry is much higher than the ratio of the small firms in themanufacturing industry. More over, if the export /product ion ratio of industry is con sidered, it is easy to observe the special position of - xi -the industry in the manufacturing sector. The textile sector is important for DCs too. These countries use technology intensive technique in production process to decrease unit costs. Their goal is to manufacture more inexpensive goods than LDCs. Because of the machine usage in production, the trade of textile machines has began to develop. When the machine trade is examined, shown that as West' Germany, Italy, DCs. are sellers. These count ries manufacture machines, that have developed techni que and sell them. Developing countries export machines too. But their technologies arenot developed as technology of industrialized countries. Because of technological developments are not enough, manufacture of machine is decreased in thesecountries. And then they are forced to import them from DCs, to produce textile goods. But it needs financial sources. If they cannot find a fi nancial source, to import machines, such as a long term credit, they have to go on their production at foreign capital companies or as dependent small firms in large firms that manufacture textile machines. Sector begins to be a subject of capital intensi ve production when firms can find financial sources, the proper machinery selection is an important problem. The machinery that is going to be iBed, must suit the two fold requirements of these oountries. While it sho uld be adequate for competetive production, it should not reduce labour input at the expense of higher capital input. DCs have some protection policies to protect their markets from the producers of LDCs since 1950s. They have made a limit exports share of LDCs among MPA (Multi Fiber Arrangement). In the face of theprotection policies, LDCs can follow an international trade policiy that does not ca used restrictions for only one side. Then they can ma ke bilateral arrangement. They can join international trade production groups that have higher quality. Be cause competition is not too much in these goods groups. The competition advantages of the Turkish texti le sector arelow of worker wages and quality of cotton fiber. - xn -One of the factors, that helps country for an important share in international markets, is mass pro duction and standard production. It needs also tech nology. But machines in Turkey are inadequate in tech nology than the ones in Europe and last Asian Count ries. The imported machines causes cost increases. Especially, in competition with East Asian countries, this cost factor is important. Because East Asian textile producers manufacture their technologies. Then in Turkey, the cost advantage that existed low vages, can disappear and effects selling prices. There is a high cost, /because of technology trans fer in sector. For this reason, firms manufacturing of machine and selling of technology are suitable. And educational foundations çejı product technology and knowledge. For these factors, it will be good that quality control, planning and research centers can be established, and research techniques level in univer sities an be increased. In these subject, the cooperation between uni versity and industry is important. This is useful for two foundations. Universities can be charged to pre pare higher quality manpower for industry and to teach new knowledge about textile technologies and management. Moreover, in firms, to make some researchers such asbringing of new technologies and planning of new investments are difficult. And they cannot have necessary tool and material to study about some sub jects. Universities can have materials for them. Prom the other side this helps universities to develop themselves in these matters while doing reserachs and solutions to the problems of the industry. In Turkey, textile industry has a development level m later years. But in same years, there is no development in education. The education matters of sector are great in skilled labour and technician tra ining. In addition, one of the main causes of low productivity is inadequates of skilled labour in count ry. The skilled labour graduate from profession lycess.
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