Çanakkale ve Gelibolu yöresi kadın-erkek kıyafetlerinin incelenmesi

Abstract

ÖZET Çanakkale Gelibolu yöresi kadın ve erkek kıyafetlerini konu alan bu tez Çanakkale;Gelibolu, Biga, Lapseki, Eceabat ilçeleriyle bunlara bağlı köylerinde yapılan araştırmalar sonucunda hazırlanmıştır. Çanakkale ve Gelibolu'nun tarihî, coğrafî yapısı, iklimi ve ekonomik yapısı hakkında genel bilgiler ikinci bölümü oluşturmuştur. Üçüncü bölümde; Çanakkale yöresinde yaşayan Yörükler hakkında kısa bir genel bilgi ve onların giydiği kadın ve erkek kıyafetleri hakkında resimlerle açıklamalar yapılmıştır. Dördüncü bölümde; Çanakkale yöresinde yaşayan Türkmenler hakkında genel bir bilgi ve onların kıyafetleri gene resimlerle açıklanmıştır. Beşinci bölüm; Çanakkale yöresindeki Pomaklar hakkında genel bir bilgi ve onların kıyafetlerini resimlerle içermektedir. Altıncı bölüm ise; Gelibolu Ilgardere köyündeki Gacallarla görüşmeler sonucu oluşmuş ve onlar hakkında genel bir bilgiyle geleneksel giyselerini resimlerle içermektedir. Çanakkale yöresinde rastladığım tüm kıyafetlerin genel bir değerlendirilmesinin yapıldığı sonuç bölümünde beş ana başlık altında iki adet erkek, on adet değişik kadın kıyafetinin görüldüğü açıklanmıştır. -vn-

SUMMARY For many years, wearing styles are changed according to the societies, economic statues, favors and countries. Anatolian people are also made their costumes according to their favors and their feelings. Unfortunately, today the traditional costumes leave their place to the modern world costumes. As a researcher, our purpose is to prevent the missing of these values. This thesis, which is about the traditional costumes of Çanakkale-Gelibolu, is prepared for the same aim. My interest about this subject was increased when I was aware of the lock of sufficient and exact researches, and that some of my parents are living there. This thesis is prepared with the researches done in Çanakkale Merkez, Gelibolu, Lapseki, Eceabat, Biga and in their villages. Some written documents are also used in this thesis. In the first part, instruction, I mentioned to the relation between the position of Çanakkale and the costumes, and a large map of Çanakkale is given. Çanakkale region beside its deep history, it also have a important strategic statue. It's the reason why this region has too different costumes. There have been too many civilizations here. There are many different etnic groups living in Çanakkale, that is why the Çanakkale' s culture is very rich. It is a luck for Turkey that Yörük, Türkmen, Pomak, Gacal and Gelibolu's native people, who live in Çanakkale, save their culture even at today. In the second part, general information about the historical, geographical, economical and climate structure of the region of Çanakkale-Gelibolu, is given to help to present the subject more easily. Throughout history, climate and religion has played an important role in a nation's choice clothing. The costumes should be evaluated with regard to the history, the wide geographic area it covers, cultures it came to contact with and religion systems that it accepted. National costumes are a part of the national identity. Because of that this thesis also include these parts. Çanakkale city was built at time of Fatih Sultan Mehmet, but it also was a living place in the ancient time. The best known ancient city is Truva. The most important -vm-history for Çanakkale is the `Çanakkale Wars`, it was on 1915. After these wars Çanakkale became the most strategic point of Turkey. In Çanakkale there are many mountains but less flatness. The climate is like Mediterranean climate. In summer the temperature is about 24 C and in winter is about 6C. The main profit in Çanakkale region is agriculture. The sources are wheat, barley, oats, sunflower and grape. Grapes are used for wine making. In Edremit, olive is an important profit. Animal husbandry is also a profit for Çanakkale region. The ceramics and cement are very famous for the region. Gelibolu is as old as Truva city. It is a place where people pass from Asia to Europe and Europe to Asia. Here many different cultures live also. Gelibolu has more flatness then Çanakkale and its climate is like Çanakkale 's. The main profit of Gelibolu is also agriculture and animal husbandry and also fishery. In Gelibolu there are both native and imigrant people living. Native people come from Karasi public and the immigrant people come from Bulgaria, Greece and Romania. Folklore of native and immigrant people mixed to each other., In the third the traditional costumes and a general information about Yörük society is studied. They live Merkez, Ayvacık, Lapseki and Yenice in the region. They migrate from middle Asia to Anatolia and their profit is from sheep husbandry. Most of them are Alawi. Yörük society have too different women costumes. One is for daily use and other is for special days like wedding ceremonies etc. They have head-dress known as `Tepelik`. It is silver and in front of it, it has blue, red and white bugles. And under these, there are gold moneys. Over this silver head dress they cover a white gause, and over this they cover a red scarf having many spangles. They wear a dirty white coloured shirt called `İçlik`. It has long arms and longs to the knees. `İç donu` is a baggy trouser coloured as `İçlik`. They both have colourful handiwork. Over the `içlik` they wear three-skirt which is made of velvet. They have yellow or white silver handiwork on them. Over this three skirt they wear a velvet coat named `Cepken`, it has also silver handiwork. In front of them they tie a colorful apron named `Gergi`. They tie another apron to their back named `Yağlık`. They tie a rope like named `Kolon` to their waist. -DC-They wear handmade, colorful socks and shoes named `Yemeni`. On their necks they wear colorful bugles. The costume of Yörük society's men are all same in Türkmen, Pomak and Gacal society. On their heads they wear a pinked fez. They wear a colorful shirt named `Altıparmak` or `Demiryollu`. As a trouser they wear short `Potur`. It is made of coarse wollen cloth and have silver handiwork near it. Over the shirt they wear armless `Camadan` the cloth and the handiwork are same as `potur' s`. Over this they wear `cepken`, it has long arms and have the same handiwork as others have. To their waist they tie a belt made from dirty white color cloth or shawl belt. They wear ` kütüklük`, `yağlık` and `abani` as accesuars. They wear over their socks a different material, not found in other Zeybek region, named `tozluk`. They wear `yemeni` as shoes. In the fourth part, a general information about Türkmen society are given. They mostly live in Merkez Ayvacık, Bayramiç and Ezine. The immigrant Türkmen society known as Yörük. Türkmen society living in Çanakkale come from Konya. They are also alawi and give an importance to their children. At their wedding ceremonies they dance semah and zeybek. Their woman costume is some different from Yörük' s. Their shirts don't have handiwork. Their three skirts are made from six finger cloth. In Türkmen society their daugters, who are twelve years old, wear a special costume. This costume is made by the parents and it means that her parents give her a great value. The young men of Türkmen society, who are twenty years old, buy a white costume is same with zeybek. They wear this just for one special day and put it to chest. When he dies, they put on this costume to him and he is buried with it. A general information about Pomak society and their traditional costumes are given in the fifth part of the thesis. Pomak society live in Biga and Arabaalan village. They come from Bulgaria and are Muslims. Pomak society have the richest costume that are seen in Çanakkale region. Their head-dress have long hairshaving bugles on them. Over this they cover a cloth named `Karpi`. Their shirts are long up to ankle. Their three skirts have small spungles and handiwork. Their are same as three skirt, but it is up to waist. They wear a different thing than others, that is cuff. -X-In the sixth part, Gelibolu Ilgardere village, which is a Gacal village, is studied and their costumes, especially the wedding ones are explained. Gacal society called as the native group of Gelibolu and they migrate from Yugoslavia. They named as `Manav` also. They live in Çanakkale, Bursa and Balıkesir. In Gacal society, the wedding ceremony lasts for five days. It begins on Wednesday.In the first day, on Wednesday, the bride and her close friend wear a costume named `Balkaymak`. It is pink, yellow or blue. It has a shirt and a trouser called `şalvar`. Shirt can have handiwork but şalvar don't have. To their waist they wear a gold belt. In the second day, on Thursday, they wear a crown on their head. The cloth is satin. They wear a costume named `üç etekli- demiryollu`. A costume called ` Taka` is worn in the third day of the ceremony, on Friday. Crown is also worn. Its three skirt is made from ` Canfes ` cloth. This day make a different make up to the bride. In the fourth day, on Saturday, they wear a costume named `Telli `. It has a shirt and şalvar made from satin cloth. On Sunday, the last day of the ceremony, the bride wear `Bindallı `. It is seen in all Çanakkale region. It is a velvet cloth and has silver handiwork on it. They wear scarf or crown on their heads. Bindallı can be a long dress or skirt-jacket. The color of these can be dark red or dark blue. `Don-entari` is another costume seen in Gelibolu Merkez. It has same handiwork as Bindallı but less than it. Its jacket and trouser are made from velvet and its shirt made from a special fabric named ` bürümcük`. `Kat-urba` is a costume which rich people wear on wedding ceremonies. Today we can find them only from chests. It is made from satin and have silver handiwork on it. In all parts, which costumes are studied, photographs are used. Some of these costumes are found from villagers and some are a belief copy of the original ones. The studies compiled regarding the information and traditional costumes of Çanakkale- Gelibolu region can be summarized as follows; In the region of Çanakkale-Gelibolu they have ten different kinds of women costumes. The richest costume is Pomak' s costumes. Women costumes can be grouped in four main groups. These are Yörük, Pomak, Türkmen and Gacal women costumes. -XI-In spite of this we can see only one type of man costume. They all wear the same costume in every etnic group. A strange thing is that they wear short trouser `potur` both in summer and in winter. Now they wear top-boots but the real one is `tozluk`. It is a shame that some people try to change the costume of the region or make degeneration. It was difficult for me to search in the villages, because they don't trust me for they have been cheated by some people. Turkey has been the cradle of many civilizations, and in addition to its historic values, the unique artistic taste of it, Turkish people are displayed in handicrafts and folklore. With the reform in clothing made after the republic was founded, old cloths were abandoned for those worn by the western world. Today, the village women don't follow the fashion but carry on the traditional way of clothing. The remnants of the traditional Turkish women's wear that has reached us over the century are still used in various regions. Some were preserved in chests and in museums. Existing examples will be as useful as written sources for writing the history of the Turkish clothing, which will provide a complete important information for study of traditions and social life styles of the history of Turkish culture and civilization. In Turkey the subject of women's wear has not been studied carefully, neither is there a complete album nor a museum for clothing. Institutes and professional high schools for girls have accomplished an important job in bringing the priceless ancient Turkish handicrafts and clothes to our day without altering their character. Today gathered clothes, ornaments and headgear slowly disappearing or hidden away in chests, showing great effort to preserve their authentic characteristics. With the conscience of the danger of disappearance of traditional costumes valuable in terms of ethnography, it should be mentioned the necessity of taking these costume into archives. We have to prevent our culture, otherwise it can be damaged. Historic examples as well as women's clothes which are still worn in various part of Çanakkale region are shown in this thesis. The contribution of this thesis and similar works on this study as well as the presentation of trie history öf the Turkish clothing deserves to be praised with gratitude. ^xn-