Gaziantep yöresi kadın ve erkek kıyafetleri

Abstract

ÖZET Yapılan araştırmalardan elde edilen veriler 4 ana bölümde açık lanmıştır. Giriş bölümünde araştırmanın amacı, önemi, alana ulaşımdaki zorluk lar, konu ile ilgili bilinen hükümler, araştırma sırasında kullanılan araştırma yöntemleri belirtilmiştir. Bulgular ve yorum bölümünde ise konunun tüm ana hatları, tarihsel gelişmeler ile beraber, bütün elde edilen veriler açıklanmış, yorumlanmış, okuyucuya en geniş haliyle sunulmuştur. Bu bölümdeki veriler, Gaziantep yöresi kadın ve erkek kıyafetlerinin tamamına yakınını en ince ayrıntılarına kadar açıklamak gereğinden dolayı diğer bölümlere nazaran daha uzun ol muştur. Şehrin tarih içerisinde geçirdiği dönemler periyodik olarak belirtilmiş, yöredeki toplulukların kültür etkileşimleri ve bu etkileşimlerin sebeplerine, sonuçlarına değinilmiştir. Çok çeşitli ve geniş bir kültür birikimi bulunan Gaziantebin, kıyafet kültürü ile ilgili olarak yapılmış bazı yanlışlıkların düzeltilmesi, eksikliklerin giderilmesi amacı ile zaman zaman bazı araştırmacıların yazılarına karşıt bulgular savunulmuş, bazen de yazılarına doğrudan başvurulmuştur. Kaynakça kısmında belirtilen kaynaklardan elde edilen verilerin konu ile doğrudan ilişkili yazılardan seçilmesine özellikle dikkat edilmiş, kaynak kişiler ile doğrudan görüşülerek konu hakkında çok önemli veriler elde edilmiştir. Alan araştırmaları sırasında, tanımlanan kıyafetlerin bir kısmının fo toğraflarını elde etmek mümkün olmuş, ancak bazı kıyafetler tanımlandığı halde elde bulunmayışından dolayı görüntülemek mümkün olamamıştır. Elde edilen fotoğraflar, kaynakça kısmından sonraki ekler kısmında bulunmak tadır. iv

SUMMARY With a thousand years history, Gaziantep's culture because of this long background, is rich and varied. The cultures of different nations in an area extending from Middle East to Anatolia and from Lower Mazapotamia to Caucasia have been brilliantly synthesized and a new culture belonging to Gaziantep was formed. The known civilizations in the area since before Christs are the cultures of Hurri, Sumerrians Egyptians, Hittites Iranians, Byzantians, Arabs, Acems, Turkish.Tucumans, Kurdish Armenians, Jewish, French and in the later periods the Afganis. The most influential ones amongst these in Gaziantep area are Turkish and Turcoman cultures. Majority of the city's population consists of the Turkish origin groups. Apart from this there are minority groups such as ; the Turcomans, Kurdish, Arabs and small groups of Armanians and Jewish origin people. The people of Gaziantep, who arrived here from different places in various periods of the history, have become very close to eachother because of the life styles and the necessities in their lives. The comradeship that was born was initially against the dangers which were threating them from outside. The friendship that was formed eventually turned into kinships. The groups which werenow kins were influenced by each others cultures, beliefs I lifestyles, the dresses and philosophies. It is possible to observe this influence all over Gaziantep. There has also been some influence on the culture of the area of the groups who were living out of Gaziantep. The most important reason of this outsider influence in the geographical position of the city. The historical ' Silk road cuts through the city Naturally, the effect of the climate geographical conditions and the traditions can be seen in their dresses. People who live in cold whether conditions wear pullovers jumpers, three piece skirts, dresses şalvar, made out of either felt, wool or velvet on them. soft unsolded shoes made out of cowhide. boots, woolen socks on their feet. Those who live in relatively warmer places wear vests which are adorned with silk or silk thread as clothing and variousheadgear made out of cloth which are adorned with different designs, shirts, gullted jacjers, dresses, şalvars, thread socks made out of thin cloth. Those who live on the mountaneous aeas prefer to use clothing made out of durable cloth. But people who live on the flat lands and lowlands are a bit more relaxed about clothing. It is possible to study the mens clothing in five general categories. 1 -Headgear 2-Body wear 3-Waist clothing 4-Underwaist clothing 5. Footwear 1. HEADGEAR The headgear that is called ' terlik '. It is adorned with different designs using s special embroidery technique, on what is called American Cloth. The cloth is white and the color of the thread is generally cream or yellow. It is pointed upwards starting from the forehead to about 15-20 cm. There is a tassel on its top. Küf: is made out of wool, orlon or velvet. The colors used are brown, black, dark blue. It surrounds the top part of the head. Külah : Is made of either Camel or lamp wool. It is funnel shaped or the top is globe shaped. It may be white, black or brown. Kalpak : It is preferred to be made out of lamb skin. It is either cylindrical upwards or the sides are flat. Fes: Is about 5 cm. high from the upper part of the forehead. The are various kinds called ' Mecidiye ' ' Aziziye ' ' Hamidiye ', zohaf ',,' sıfır ', ' Tunusıa ', ' Egypt ' 2. BODY CLOTHING Köynek : Made out of what is called American Cloth. The color is V shaped and the sleeves are long and tight. VIZubun : It is warn over koynek. It is made out of a special cloth called Şam topu. Yelek : There are various kinds called The hunters Vest', fold vest, kirk düğme, Algerian vest..It may be white, grey, brown, black or dark blue colors. Some of them are made by weaving on loom onto blue or bourdeux color velvet. They are sleeveless and open or zero shaped color. Cepken, aba, etc. are worn over these. The cepkens and abas are expensive clothing. The expensive cloth are generally adorned with expensive gilt thread in different designs. Some kind are only worn by the rich people of the area. The fronts are usually open. The length of some only come to the waist, some to the knees. The sleeves are half. The sleeves and back are adorned with embroidery. 3. WAIST CLOTHING The clothing that surrounds the waist are generally called 'kuşak' or 'şal' in Gaziantep vicinity. It both protects the waist from cold and pains and is also used for putting small things in between. The names of these 'kuşak' and 'şal' are 'Acem şalı' (kuşağı), yerli şal ', 'Trablus Kuşağı ', 'kayış kuşak', 'kabadayı Kuşağı '. The most expensive of these is the Acem Şal. They are made out of silk or wool. Yellow, black, red or orange, and green colored silk and wool are woven together. The design of the 'yerli şal ' is green or light yellow. They also have tassels at the end. They are about 4-5 meters long. There is also strap 'kuşak' made out of leather. 4.UNDERWAIST CLOTHING The underwaist clothing are called 'don', 'şalvar`,. Don is the underwear. It can be made out of various kinds of cloth depending on the economical situation of the user. It is about knee length 'tuman' is worn under 'şalvar ' and the upper part being wide the lower parts are tight, şalvar is the most common outwear. They may be in Black, blue, VIIdark blue, grey colored. As to its shape, the part that surrounds the waist is smocked, wide up to the knees and tight towards the ankles. 5. FOOTWEAR In summer time men do not usually wear socks. The socks made out of wool, orlon or the wool of autumn.-shorn sheep are usually worn in winter. As to shoes ; the non-soled çarık made out of thin hide and non-soled edik made out of thick hide, boots, yemenis and keliks are worn in summer. The shoes are generally in black, red or bordeaux colored. The women's clothing can be generalized in 5 categories. 1. HEADGEAR The scarves made out of silk, satin, and thread are widely used by women. It may be in different colors depending on the age of the user. The daughters of economically better off families in the city centers and the villages within the vicinity may wear a silver crown on top fes made out of felt. The şal called 'Ahmediye', are widely used as headgear by the women of the Southern parts of Gaziantep. The Ahmediyes either cover all the head or tied to the upper part of the head together with Poşu. There are also hats adorned with gold and silver ornaments which are worn by the Brides. 2.THE BODYWEAR. The most widely used are Dresses - entari, Fistan, Satin shirts, shirts made of printed cloth, three piece skirts made out of velvet or silk and skirts made out of purple velvet embroidered with silver thread. 3. WAIST CLOTHING The waist gear are the kuşak made out of silk, or thread cloth and the metal belt ( kemer). The woven kemers are 10-15 cm. wide. They are woven on benches out of silk or cotton thread. The metal belts made out of gold or silver. There are belts with various designs on. 4.UNDERWAIST VIIITuman ' or ' şalvar ' are worn under the waist. There are various kinds of şalvar called 'kutnu şalvar ', ' velvet şalvar ', ' silk şalvar ', ' fabric şalvar ', ' cotton şalvar '. These şalvars are alike in terms of their style. The waist and the lower parts towards the leg are smocked, from the waist down its wide, the ankle part is tight and the middle parts is wide. 5. FOOTWEAR The footwear are not too much different from what the men wear. They carry different on the size. Accessories, necklaces etc. There are earings on the ears, necklaces around necks, bracelets on the wrists, some silver and golden headgear and accessories worn with the headgear which are special to the area of women. IX