Türk halk oyunlarında dokumacılık ve Yeşilyurt dokumacılığı

Abstract

ÖZET Bu çalışma; İstanbul Teknik Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü, Güzel Sanatlar Anasanat Dalı Musiki Sanat Dalı Türk Halk Oyunları Alanı 'nda ` Türk Halk Oyunlarında Dokumacılık ve Yeşilyurt Dokumacılığı` konulu Yüksek Lisans Tezi olarak hazırlanmıştır. Çalışma alanımızı; Halk Oyunlarında Dokumacılığa genel bir bakış ile Muğla- Yeşilyurt Dokumacılığı oluşturmuştur. Muğla yöresinde dokumacılığın geçmişi antik çağlara kadar gider, ti 'de yaklaşık 300 yıllık geçmişi olan ve klasik tezgahlarda yapılan el dokumacılığının son yıllarda pazarlama sorunları nedeniyle ekonomik değer kazanamadığından unutulmaya başladığı, ancak özellikle bundan yaklaşık 2500 yıl önce kurulmuş ilk adı Pisi olan Yeşilyurt beldesinde ve çevresinde çeyizlik olarak yaşlılar tarafından az miktarda dokunulduğu görülmektedir. Son yıllarda Devlet tarafından tütün tarımına getirilen kota nedeniyle bölgenin kırsal kesiminde gelir azalması ortaya çılanca, tütüne alternatif geçim kaynaklarının oluşması Muğla Valiliğince düşünülmüş ve geleneksel dokumacılığın geliştirilerek genç kuşağa öğretilmesi ve yöreye ekonomik değer kazandırılması en uygun yöntem olarak belirlenmiştir. Çalışmalarımızda; bizzat mahalinde ve gözlemleyerek, yöre halkı ile görüşmeler yapılmış, bunun yanısıra resmi kuruluşların yetkililerinin de bilgi ve görüşlerine baş vurulmuştur. Elde ettiğimiz sonuçlar, hem Muğla ili hem de folklorumuz açısından sevindirici olmuştur.

SUMMARY With a subject of `Weaving Art in Turkish Folk Dances and Yeşilyurt Veaving Art`, the present study has been prepared as a Master thesis of Istanbul Technical University, Institute of Social Sciences, Major of Fine Arts, Art of Music, Field of Turkish Folk Dances. Folk materials are products constituted by people. The scope of folklore including all subjects related to puclic relation is so wide. Generally speaking an event or cultural product cannot be regarded as a folk product unless it is possessed by puclic, anonymous and be spread from generations to the subsequent generations. Folklore has a structure continuously bearing new products, and each generation adds new values to the folk values. From the past on, Turkish folklore has been and will be a result feelings and thoughts of many people. The changing economic conditions, conscious or unconscious destruction or neglect have damaged our many folk values, caused the to be forgotten, eliminated or deviated from the original. Our folk dances bringing people in any age closer, rendering unity and solidarity, keeping national conscious at the highest level has many expression ways. Therefore, being awereof our folk values which has been forgotten in the historical period and presenting them to the sciences as knowledge vviil be a gain for our folk dances. Turkish Society is a leading one in many arts including garment and adornment arts. Garments shape up according to the needs and environmental conditions of people. Our garments which are coloured and adorned by feelings and thoughts of VTour people are a folk culture gathering and keeping alive general characteristics of each regions. Garments of old and young people differ as plain and lively garments. Climate conditions require garments to be thinner or thicker. What else, delicate fabrics and painful adornments are used in garments prepared for ordinary and special days, and show is given special consideration. While hand looms are used in some regions, textile products have been began to be used in some other regions. When we say Folk Handicrafts, we mean weaving, coppersmith, wood working, skin dressing, ceramic and so on. Big handdicrafts are those for which hand tools are needed, e.g. carpet weaving. Small handicrafts are those for which no tool is usually required, e.g. embroider}'. Knitting and weaving which contain any product in a range from garments to fiirniture are also important in the Folk Handicrafts. Production and process of yarn and the final product have artistic value, e.g. carpet, panel, socks, dress. These meet necessities and have aesthetic value. Mugla is one of our cities located in the Southwest of Anatolia, one part of which is in the Mediterranean region and other part in the Aegean region. The main characteristics of city ground are its steepness and brokenness, indentation in its coastline. The past of weaving in the region of Mugla lies up to the antique eras. Handicraft weaving having a past of about 300 years and made on the classical looms in the said city has been began to be forgotten since it was not profitable due to marketing problems in the last years, however, it is woven by old people in small quantities for trousseau particularly in Yeşilyurt distirict and its neighbourhood, whose old name is Pisi, founded approximately 2500 years ago. Yeşilyurt is a very old settlement protcting its original name until recent times. Yeşilyurt is a town with a population of 2500 an 14 km from the central VIIdistrict of Mugla to which it attaches. Almost all population is literate. Hie main sources of income are tobacco, grapes, olives, stock-farming and weaving. Mulberry trees being a natural sources of sericulture were very dense in a considerable part of such abundant plain until 1970s. When the concentrated tobacco activities have been started in the period when Ecevit was in power, mulberry trees have been replaced with the tobacco fields mere, and lead to a considerable increase in income. This period had been succeeded by a regression period and a difficulty in living. At last, tobacco producers began to see traditional arts as a salvation for both themselves and Yeşilyurt. Fabrics woven by old people in small quantities in Yeşilyurt and neighbourhood are made of raw materials such as pure silk, cotton yard, sheep wool. Weaving are performed as cotton 100%, wool 100%, silk 100% or as mixtures of cotton- wool, cotton-silk or cotton-wool-silk. Although such fabrics with no artificial matter, produced by only natural and regional materials are demanded and preferred ones for human health, such precious hand-woven fabrics are liable to vanishing. Weaving which has a past of 300 years and is liable to vanishing has the been revived, thanks to the efforts of Ms.Lale Aytaman, ex-governor of Mugla Such change made in the fashion world by the famous companies such as :Ferre, ValentffiG,^Dwr, VSt whieh are satiated by the^tides of «erial^roduetion has attracted Lale Aytaman. She added such observation to what she saw in Yesilturt village and led to a wonderful attempt. In general, tailoring and handicraft courses arranged by the Public Education Centres in villages have also been arranged in Yeşilyurt, and young girls of the region is targeted to gain skills. Sericulture and hand weaving being a historical cultural arts have a past of 200-250 years in Yeşilyurt. Such art is performed by the people at a certain age. Thus, it is liable to vanishing along with old peoble. Co-operatives has been established in order to prevent weaving art top vanish, to gain sympathy of young people for such art and to open an employment circle. As a result of the fact that Mugla Governing Office had beeb interested in this subject closely, `Mugla VIIIGoverning Office State Skill Gaining Courses` was started in 1993. These courses were constituted with three steps in which the first step is preparation to weaving, the second step is weaving and the third step is development of the woven fabrics and making final products. The products made in such courses have been exhibited in fairs, put on the markets, and one part of those has been kept as trousseau. And such weaving products achieved their deserving value in both windows of Beymen and the foreign markets. Muğla Yeşilyurt hand weaving products contains many characteristics which can be examples of concrete values in our country. These continued through generations, satisfying both aesthetic and other necessities. In spite of some factors changing over time, hand looms have been adorning houses and gardens, being placed in memories as precious utensils. Today, it is not placed only in our hearts and thoughts, it is also placed in domestic and foreign markets, thanks to the collaboration of local authorities with people. Therefore, material/ moral gain has been achieved in both individual and social fields, and such products have been puclicized. Yeşilyurt shows the best example of Turkish weaving keeping alive the old style traditions and customs. Based on the results from our research, we can summarize the characteristics of the Yeşilyurt weaving articles shortly as follows: 1- In hand loom, fabric is woven in narrow width and its width is 60-70 cm. If a wider product is wanted to be obtained, drawing mechanisme is used. Such product is very durable. It is said to be durable for 30-40 years. Texture and colours are more natural. 2- Fabrics woven in hand looms are so useful as to health and handling. Cotton and silk weaving articles are healthier since they keep warm in winters and cool in summers, and suck sweat. 3- Weaving articles which were used to use for dress with veil, tablecloth and large bath-towel began to be used in many aims and fields. Yarn is kept within water before used in hand or drawing loom so that the yanı does not break while it IXis being woven. Such yara is called `hasilh yarn`. After the fabric is woven and washed, it becomes soft like before. 4- In order to obtain `sas red` used in the weaving articles of the region, sas red colour which is commercially available in packages and used for tobacco seedling is added to the yarn boiled in ashes obtained from mulberry, menec or fig tree. Raw yarn is beaten while it is hot, and dried under the sun when its original colour appears. 5- The weaving articles peculiar to the region and called `helal` are made of 70% silk and 30% cotton. The characteristic of such weaving articles is that the silky weaving is mixed with cotton yarn since men are prohibited from wearing 100% silk in Islam religion. Such product used only as dress with veil in past are used for many purposes today. 6- Modelling on co-operative work in Yeşilyurt, weaving courses have been arranged in neighbour regions. 7- Co-operative work and regional weaving have been known by domestic and foreign tourism, and such products were began to be demanded. We would like to thank Ms. Lale Aytaman, ex-governor of Mugla and Mr. Mehmet Quner, Mayor of Yeşilyurt for their contribution to our folklore and for their holy task understanding. The valuable members of the Institutions and Organizations as well as regional people which continued and still continuing the mentioned work in co-operation must also be congratulated. We hope the looms which are out of use at present began to be used again, and our all folk values which are liable to vanishing are revived and transferred to the next generations. On this occasion, we are happy to call everyone who likes his/her country.