Yenileşme sürecinde Osmanlı askeri kıyafetlerindeki dokusal aksesuarlar

Abstract

It is well-known that people who settled, also create a society which has the differentiation and classes. Among these classes -military, bureaucracy and civilians that we see, the military always show a clear difference and separation by both; the behaviour of its members, and, their clothing and accessories which are complementary with the dresses. Throughout the history, the attitude of some nations who have the militaristic origin and warrior tradition, is one of the main reasons why militaristic costumes are getting more and more importance. The Turks who also have the militaristic origin, had participated to war with all their members in the case of emergency. They had fought with their daily-life dresses because of the habits come from nomadic life even after their settlement. Whenever they had used to the social life, the military class had begun to emerge. We know that the basis of the Ottoman army had come into being by the two elements; Kapıkulu and Tımarlı Sipahi. At the end of the eightteen century, tımar system had collapsed and Kapıkulu had been emphasized much more than before. That is why Yeniçeri Ocağı gained importance. The children, muslim or non-muslim, had educated as soldiers in Yeniçeri Ocağı, and informed about the Ottoman system and order. At the beginning we see that the difference between the ones who have Turco-muslim origin and who were from devşirme, has been provided by the costumes; the devşlrmes were wearing in red. On the other hand, some sub-classes had emerged in Yeniçeri Ocağı on the context of expertising. The members of those new sub-classes had had same special costumes of their own. In that sense Janissaries were different from the armies of the other nations by both; the division of labour and clothing which has been determined by the expertise. The clothing of Janissaries were coming up with the different colour, metarial, accessory and model according to their professions. This colorful and splendid world of Janissaries had went on until the period of innovation. During the period of innovation, the traditional forms had been left one by one, because of the lack of proper economical conditions and the effort of being occidentalise. The trend was towards to produce the new and cheaper desings which were based on occidental styles. That was the time of wearing `uniform` in Ottoman army. The European nations who begun to be industrial societies, and the European armies who improved through those new changes, had created certain practical necessities. The period which had been taken to realize as a pattern by the Ottomans, had brought together the necessities of setting up a regular army; a modem educati on; developed weapons; and, suitable chothing. Foreign officials also had been invited ivas educators time to time, and these education programmes had been supported with the new end developed weapons. It is known that some Hungarian masters had come for cannon and the other fire-guns. The education of engineering and medicine had begun into the army for the first time. The renewal and change occured by the effecti- on of Renaissance had reflected directly to the western societies. That is why Otto mans could not stay away from its results; the renewals had entered to the Ottoman society. An another impact which started the period of innovation, was the corruption and political weakness of Ottoman Empire in the country and abroad, beyond the rea lity -she had reached to her limits. The political and economical weakness of the empi re, had forced the governing bureaucracy towards to make changes, especially by the foreign pressures. In Europe, in addition to the buildup of Renaissance and Baroque, while Late Rococo, Empire and Romantism age had lasted, Selim III and Mahmud II had taken the first steps through the Occidentalisation. This process had got faster during the reigns of the Sultan Abdülmecld and Abdülazlz. Beyond the reasons of Tanzimat which has been proclaimed in 1839, and the first and second constitutional monarchies, the political and ideological pressure of Europe in terms of parliamenta rism had taken an important place. All the renewals in Ottoman Empire had begun in the army, which can be accepted as a former institution. While the battle-power had been increased, the sight of the army had been set up according to the resembles in West. It is claimed that modern iniatives which is necessary for the modern and future academic education, had had basis in the army during this age. After the industrialization in Europe, the growing necessity of raw material and market, had revealed the colonialism. The European colonialistic armies had been used for impressing the other people visually, by way of embellishing with accessories and ornaments which create admiration, impression and charm. The militaristic costumes had been designed as colorful, ostentatious and attractive. Ottomans, while taking this aim as a pattern, had also ornamented their costumes with various accessories in their newly set-up regular army. In addition, this aim had had the purpo se of gaining prestige which had begun to disappear in political area. It is known that the costumes, besides their other functions in military, show the traditional properties of the age through the details of the accessories. Ottomans who empasized the ornamentation and wealth together with their settlement, had used various embellishing techniques in decorating accessories of the militaristic costumes.On top of the elements which form a costume, are accessories. In this research to underline the reflections of the variety of traditional accessories through militaristic area, the accessories on militaristic costumes were chosen to study and the others were left behind. It can be seen that those accessories which have a traditional meaning, are the basis of today's textile accessories. The accessories used on militaristic costumes, besides their socio-cultural impact on society, also perform a traditional artistic mastery. At the same time, those accessories are important in terms of reflecting the continuity of traditional arts. This research tried to emphasize the continuity by using examples. vi